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Ahardyandresilientlotthe Poles; always have been, always will be. Exhibitions 16.03 Saturday Swans F-5, Stodoła Club, ul. See i f you can still get your greedy mitts on a copy of their last album, ‘We Rose from Your Bed with the Sun in Our Head’, limited to 1000 copies with hand printed covers and signed by Mr. Eachofthese componentsofthebaskethasasymbolicmeaning. Theeggsandmeatsymbolisenewli fe,fertilityand health, the salt protects against bad spirits and helps youfoll owtheri ghtpath,thebreadsymbolisethe body of Christ and by this future prosperity in terms of alwayshavingfoodtofeedyoursel f,thehorseradish represents strength and physical health and the cake representsskillsandtalentsneededforthecoming year. Q314 rooms (303 singles, 303 doubles, 10 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). Rooms are clean, bare and tidy, and while the prices are kind the chances of meeting any fellow backpackers are virtually non-existent. The combined kitchen/lounge area is naturally sparklingly new, with cushy leather sofas and a foosball table ready for action. A charismatic hostel stuffed with abstractart,bitsandpiecesfromthriftstoresandwacky colourschemes. Charlotte is the ideal place to sip a Perrier and nibble a tart without feeling like le snob. The chef’s tasting menu is the place to splurge, with six courses of Polish/French cuisine that emphasises seasonal foods, while the three-course lunch menu lets budget con- scious foodies get their hands on the likes of roasted loin of venison, risotto and a rich chocolate chestnut mousse with cognac ice cream. Most museums listedpresentacycleoftemporaryexhibitions,detailsof which can be found in our culture and events section.We reckon that it’s pretty safe to assume that by the time this publication hits the streets in February, Warsaw will not be in the grip of some Mediterranean-style heat wave. Theatre posters from 1945-2012 will be on display that span the globe, with only a few being pulled from Poland. Rezurekcja (Resurrection), a traditional mass with procession,isheld Saturdaynightor Eastermorning depending on parish tradition. POTHAR6UFLGKDCw W hhhh Mercure Warszawa Centrum A-4, ul. This newly-christened Mercure Warszawa Centrum is in a prime location hemmed in by the Palace of Culture and Złote Tarasy shopping centre. Ideal for visitors who want their hostel to feel like a hotel. Rooms(andthereceptionarea)arecur- rentlygettingasmallrefurbthoughtheystilldon’thave numbers, just themes, and have been designed by a team oflocalartists. Lewis,or‘The Communist Dorm’, filled with commie iconography and scenes from So- cialist Paradise. In many senses this place, almost directly opposite the airline check-in desks, is an extension of Warsaw Airport. The Friday’s experience as replicated the world over, so no surprises to find Americana aplentyandstafffittedoutwithbells,whistlesandother moronic markings. Excellent food served in an elegant but relaxed atmosphere down in the moneyed Wilanów district of Warsaw. This aging establishment, equipped with Czech street signs and images of simpleton Szwejk, is a bit of a Warsaw classic, and while it looks brash and basic the food is fine and the portions are scary. Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature (Muze- um Literatury im.To keep up to date and show your support, ‘like’ us on Facebook (facebook.com/warsawinyourpocket) and follow us on Twitter (twitter.com/warsawiyp). Leading up to the season you’ll see decorative handmade palms for sale all over Kraków’s marketsquare. Waitresses are happy to interpret, and though the transient system means you might not get thedelicioustomatosoupwithpestoorhandmaderavioli that we did, their quality indicates you can’t go wrong. Match a stein of fresh pils with something from their picture menu which features local favourites like pierogi, pork knuckle and kaszanka (a kind of black pudding) as well as dishesmoreoftenassociatedwith Poland’sbeerdrinking neighbours; German Wurst, Austrian Schnitzel and Hungar- ian Goulash. Modellingforherwas actress Krystyna Krahelska,whowasmortallyinjuredon the first day of the Uprising while working as a field nurse. The only surviv- ing part of the destroyed Saxon Palace.The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is comple- telysubjectiveandindependentofpaid-foradvertisingor sponsoredlistings. Thesetraditionaldecorationsmade from a variety of dried flowers and plants are crafted in villagesallover Poland. Newcomer Theatroiseasilythe most grown-up place on Warsaw’s busy Foksal Street. Alreadyestablished as one of Warsaw’s most exotic nightspots Sheesha also doesasolidtradeinluringthepre-drinkscrowdinwitha tantalisingmenuofeasterndelights. The high ceilings and stacks of wine crates are all that pass for décor, but we couldn’t take our eyes off the chef tempering chocolateonthecentreisland-callitdinnerandshow. Simple, accessible and with regular promotions make this a popular spot. Tombofthe Unknown Soldier(Grób Niezna- negoŻołnierza)B-3, Pl. Thepalacewascon- structed during the 17th century though the tomb was not added to the complex until 1925.Our restaurants section is divided up by cuisine, so if you’re in search of pierogis flip to the Polish section and find your nearest purveyor of these savory dough pockets. I f quick access to the airport is an essential requirement then the new Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport has you covered. If you don’t like Bordo, be advised: life is harder when you’re hard to please. The statue made its debut in 1964, originally standing on pl. This was before there was any official memorial to the Warsaw Uprising, and as such Nike became the favoured assembly point for Polish veterans, as well as student agitators in later years. Teatralny underwent a well-deserved facelift and the fearsome Nike found herself forklifted over to her current spot where she stands with a watchful eye over the cars and buses that gasp to-and-fro. The mermaid is the symbolof Warsaw,andas such you’ll find her likeness on everything from buses to beer cans.As always we sincerely hope you enjoy your time in Warsaw and the guide we have put together. Couples Ma Maison Le Reginaistheperfecthoneymoonex- perience, and right in the middle of romantic new town. The legend dates to the time of Prince Kazimierz, who allegedlygotlostwhileona hunting expedition in the area that is now Warsaw.In Your Pocketwritersdonotaccept freemeals,sexualfavours,first-bornchil drenorother bribes in return for favourable reviews and reserve the right to say whatever the hell they damn well feel like about the venues listed in this guide, regardless of disagreement from advertisers, establishment owners or the general public. Sławkowska 12, 31-014 Kraków Company Office & Accounts Joanna Szlosowska 58 555 08 31 [email protected] 25,000 copies, 6 times per year Czech Republic Poland Romania Serbia Bosnia Kosovo Albania Greece FYR Macedonia Bulgaria Montenegro Italy Croatia Slovenia Austria Switzerland Ukraine Belarus Lithuania Latvia Estonia Russia Germany Belgium Netherlands Northern Ireland Ireland 8 Warsaw In Your Pocket warsaw.WINTER IN WARSAW Tast epol i sht r adi t i on U Fukiera, Warszawa, Rynek Starego Miasta 27, tel. Złota 59, (Open 10: 00 - 22: 00, Sun 10: 00 - 20: 00). Palmsaretakentochurchon Sunday to be blessed before decorating homes for the duration of the season. The interiors instantly wow - and make you reflexively smooth your attire - and show an impressive attention to detail in everything from the stone walls to the immaculately set tables. Almosteverytable appears to order in bulk and share the piles of tikka masala or riyesh, then caps the meal off with a fruity sheesha pipe passed around the table for dessert. And we’re not the only ones who think so: 12 Stolików was named one of the top five restaurants in Warsaw in 2011 by Gazeta Wyborcza newspaper. Eerily, thetombwastheonlypartof thestructuretosurvivebeing dynamitedbythe Nazis. The ashes of unknown soldiers from WWII have been fittingly added.The editor has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of theinformationinthisguideatthetimeofgoingtopress andassumesnoresponsibilityforunforeseenchanges, errors, poor service, disappointing food or terrible hangovers. 022 831 10 13, tel./fax 022 831 58 08 O LV SK L Z [ Y L Z [ H \ Y H U [PU H Y Z H ^ asta 27, 8 ani nvi t at i onf r om Winter either bites with its teeth or lashes with its tail. Doyou Bel i evei na Thi ng Cal l ed Love,ormaybe j ustl ovethesong? 17.03 Sunday An Evening with Chris Botti B- 4, Congress Hall, Pl. Perhaps the world’s most popular smooth jazz trumpeter, Chris Bottihasbeennominatedfornumerous Grammy awards and had three albums hit number 1 on the Billboard jazz albums chart. As a deepl y Catholi c country, Poland takes i ts Eas- tercel ebrati onsseri ousl y;throughouttheperi od, thevi si ti ngforei gnercanexpectmostshopsand manybarsandrestaurantstobeei theremptyor cl osedbeginningon Good Friday(29/03/2013). Beautifully presented food in the modern, if regularly quiet, interiors of the Westin hotel. Where Theatro loses steam is its enormous menu; our waiter had to be sent away twice as we pawed through pages of just drink choices. PTAGSW MONDAY Tap beer half price TUESDAY Two gurmańskia pljeskavica for the price of one WEDNESDAY Rakija‘s day THURSDAY & FRIDAY Fresh mussels SATURDAY Big butcher‘s swine SUNDAY Cooking school for kids ul. 48 (22) 828 10 60 [email protected] ALL WEEK 36 RESTAURANTS 37 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket February - March 2013 warsaw.warsaw.pairing deliciously with piping hot naan. To those deported and murdered in the East (Pom- nik Poległymi Pomordowanymna Wschodzie) E-1, intersection of Bonifraterska, Andersa and Mura- nowska.

Leave the meticulously reconstructed Old Town and the cinematic atmosphere quickly shifts from Disney magic to retro Cold War spy thriller, with one half expecting Orson Welles to appear from the shadows of a pre-war courtyard - hat pulled down, trench coat collar popped, unfiltered ciggie frozen to his lip - and shuffle across one of the bridges over to Praga (p.90). You,asaforeigner,arenotexemptfromthis practise, so move fast i f you see someone armed with a water pistol or bucket and a grin. Q22 rooms (3 singles, 10 doubles, 1 triple, 8 apartments). Pride of place goes to the apartment, whose defining feature is a raised lounge area with an oval-shaped window. Another hotel where spending the extra on a premium ‘komfort’ room is wholly encouraged. Goodlooking,modernfurnishedapartmentsinlocations across Warsaw-bothcentreandout. Allsizes,andall budgets, though with a distinct slant towards the higher end of the market. We offer professional service, quality and excellent locations as well as competitive pricing. The Hard Rock Cafe has based a business around the concept of unri vall ed burgers and i mpressi vememorabilia,and Warsaw’schapterisno di f ferent. Grab a Conestoga wagon booth or a table under a framed photo of Chief Sitting Bull and peruse a menu that tries to recreateli fearoundthecampfirewithunimpressiveribs, cold fries and a random selection of Mexican offerings like fajitasandburritos. Recommended particularly i f you are sleeping upstairs so you won’t have far to haul your happil y fed sel f. Here is a selection of recommendations depending what you are looking for. The attire worn by the waitresses might throw you off for a minute - yes, they are dressed in tacky, revealing faux football uniforms - but the four in-house beers are worthy, and carni- vores will swoon at the ten different types of meat that arrive on a giant sword in all-you-can-eat style for 64zł. PTA6EGSW British Legends British Bar&Restaurant B-4,ul. Find it a stone’s throw south of the Marriott hotel. In one country - Poland - he failed and is remembered as the greatest hero who ever walked the land.

Łazienki Park (G-4) A stroll around the famous Łazienki Park at this time of year is a must. Admis- sion22/13-16zł,familyticket57zł.(2adults 2children). Ondisplayatthe Centre for Contemporary Art, Ujazdowski Castle,isaselec- tionoftheartist’smostimportantworksinwhichhe investigates the deepest areas of human life. Q227 rooms (96 singles, 120 doubles, 5 triples, 3 suites). Apartments suit all budgets, though the Queen - with a large living space -iswellworththeextraoutlay. Rooms were recentlyrefurbishedandarenowsparklinglymodern. And we applaud any changes that mean this hotel isn’t going to charge guests for Internet use anymore. One of the best budget options in the city, and as such often fully booked. Q231 rooms (231 singles, 106 doubles, 109 triples). Originally built in 1892 in the secessionist style it went on to become the home of the Soviet embassy in 1924, was taken over by the Nazis during the war, hence saving it from destruction, although they did chisel out the hammer & sickle from the beautiful bas-relief above the entrance. Guests are awarded all the privileges granted to those stay- ing in the hotel, including 24hr room service and use of the fitness centre. Eventhe bathroomsarepai nfull ycool,labell ed“Guns”forhi m and “Roses” for her. Cheap Themany Bar Mlecznycanteens(Milk Bars)area legacy to the communist past, and while they’re cheap youmaywishtoskipthemunlessyoureallyarebone broke and starving. Arangeofbreakfast pricedat21złfeaturingtraditional Frenchand English selections or lighter fare like muesli and yoghurt, all with free coffee. PTAXSW Breakfast 34 RESTAURANTS 35 RESTAURANTS Warsaw In Your Pocket February - March 2013 warsaw.warsaw.Balkan Banja Luka B-3, ul. The monu- ment is an exact copy of one in Washington by sculptor Antoni Popiel given to Americans on behalf of the Polish nation.

It’s much quieter and contemplative than in the summer months when it’s absolutely overrun with people. Thisisthe first temporary interactive ex- hibition in the Copernicus sci- ence centre. Accommodationhasbeen designed to evoke a real atmosphere of home-away-from- home and features lots of flowers, natural wood and personal touches courtesy of Jarek, your host. Q435 rooms (60 singles, 328 doubles, 40 apartments, 1 Presidential Suite). Magnolia,oneof Noclegi Okęcie’s three accommodations coupled near the airport (the neighbouring two buildings, Pod Lipami and U Jakuba are set up hostel-style) has newly remodelled single and double en-suite modernroomsthatwilldelightbudgettravelers:free Wi-fi,an outdoor space for lounging, immaculate cleanliness and enough distance from the road to make sleeping a breeze. Basic, modern rooms come equippedwithprivatebathroomsandtelevision,andthe locationisjustatramstopfromthetrainstation. TYHAR6ULGK hh Apartments NEW H15Boutique Apartments B-4,ul. Nowadays it has undergone yet another metamorphosis and has been stunningly renovated, a head spinningconversionwhichsympatheticallyblendstheold and the new. Couples Solec44hasasolidmenuandamassivearrayof board games at which you can challenge (and beat) your sweetheartwhile Halka has elegant date night interiors and a menu to match. At its unveiling outside of the White House in 1910 the promise was made to erect a copy in Poland if ever the country regained its independence.

Photo: Silar/Wikipedia/CC BY_SA 3.0 Winter is Warsaw’s most loathed season, but that’s only if you don’t take advantage of what the locals know – yes, that means getting outside. Of course the weather is a justifiable excuse to explore all of Warsaw’s warmer indoor wonders, beginning with one of our favorites: The Warsaw Uprising Museum. Forsomething moreupmarketcheckintothe Polonia Palace,are- stored art nouveau building bang in the centre. The modern cosmological view - that our galaxy is one of billions in a vast universe - is this man’s legacy.

Embrace the temperature, toss on your puffiest coat and see why nothing keeps these people indoors in feature on page 8. It’s easily the best museum in the city and on our list of can’t-miss attractions with a mix of interactive displays, original photographs, video footage and the stunning City of Ruins film to give you an idea of what post-war Warsaw was like. Złota 59 (Open 09: 00 - 22: 00, Sun 09: 00 - 21: 00). Belgian band Vaya Con Dios is losing their lead singer, Dani Klein,whoisendinghercareerfollowingthisconcerttour. Or why not see what it’s like to be a (wealthy) local, and rent out an apartment - we vouch for Residence St Andrews, class apartments in an A1 location. Thestatueitsel fwasbuiltin1830andhasseenitsfair share of adventure. During WWII the Nazi’s placed a bronze plaque insinuating that the great man was in fact - gasp - a German.

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